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Expat Retiree Profile: An American Moving to Portugal to Fulfill a Dream


Homes on the cliffs of Carvoeiro overlooking the beach in the Algarve region of Portugal

If you’ve ever dreamed of moving abroad after retirement, Veronica Ondrejech has advice for you: do it now, and don’t wait for the perfect moment. Tomorrow is not promised.

Veronica and her husband, Ray, an Air Force retiree, shared a dream of living in Europe. Barely 50 years old, in 2017 they decided to retire early and take the leap. They found their ideal town in Portugal and were preparing to move when Ray passed away unexpectedly.

Veronica made the difficult decision to continue pursuing their dream, and she moved to Vila Real de Santo Antonio, a small village in the Algarve region. Her experience has proven that she made the right choice, because expat life in Portugal is everything they hoped it would be.

In this personal interview, part of our Expat Retiree series, read what Veronica has to say about retirement in Portugal and her valuable advice for others contemplating a move overseas.

What gave you the idea to retire early and move abroad?

Since the military allows you to retire at 20 years’ active duty (with benefits), we knew we wanted to retire earlier than most.

My husband really never found that perfect fit of a second career after retiring from the Air Force, but I was still working and making good money.

In 2007 my company put me on retainer (they paid me not to work, because the markets were unstable, but as a top account executive, they wanted to keep me on the payroll). My husband wasn’t working, so it was easy to travel.

Veronica in the gardens of the Estoi Palace in Faro

We spent over a month in Italy learning to make wine and touring around. We went to Australia and New Zealand, to China and around the States.

We knew then that traveling would be our retirement dream. It was just a matter of when.

It wasn’t until California continued to add more taxes, and our local community decided to add more to our ever-increasing property taxes, that we realized if we waited until 72 to retire, we would be working just to pay taxes.

My last career included working as a vendor to real estate agents, so I was aware that the market spiked in our area in 2016-2017. We decided to go for it: sell the house and start our travels abroad.

To be fair, I also got an inheritance I wasn’t expecting from my grandmother (not a huge amount, but enough to buy a house abroad with the equity in our home with the trust as a supplement). We would fund our travels with a travel blog and marketing consultant work.

So the short answer was that we knew we wanted to do it young, but taxes and an increase in the property values, plus a little unexpected income to supplement our savings, prompted us to take action.

How did you choose Portugal as your retirement destination?

We searched through online information and books to find the best retirement destinations in Europe. We’d been to Europe many times, but Portugal hadn’t really been on our radar.

A friend visited Portugal for the amazing waves, and he raved about the beaches, people and history. This confirmed that Portugal should be on our list to check out.

We flew there in early 2017 and explored many areas in Portugal, north to south. We decided that Portugal was for us and that the Algarve region of Portugal would be our retirement destination.

Sunset over the Guadiana River
View of Ayamonte, Spain and the Guadiana River from Veronica’s rooftop terrace.

Meanwhile, we had decided to sell our home when the market in California was hot, and we listed it while we were gone so that it was easy for realtors to view. Our house sold in less than a week for $50K over the asking price, and we signed docs virtually. The house was closed within a week of returning home, and we had an agreement to rent back.

Unfortunately, my husband passed away a few months after our visit to Portugal. I had to decide whether to continue with the move or to stay home, and I decided to stick with our plans. I moved to Portugal in October 2017.

How did you choose Vila Real de Santo Antonio?

When my husband and I visited Portugal to see if it could be a match for us, we visited many regions.

We visited Porto in the North, which is an amazing city with the river and port houses, but it was just too cold for me (a Southern California native).

| Related Reading: “Slow Travel” Itinerary for Exploring Portugal

Lisbon was vibrant and full of life but was just too big for us. We’d moved from LA to San Luis Obispo, CA after my husband retired from the Air Force in 2005 (his last duty station was the Los Angeles Space and Missile Center) and we like the feel of smaller communities.

A city square surrounded by wide buildings with an obalisk in the center.
The city square and church of Vila Real de Santo Antonio

Vila Real de Santo Antonio (VRSA) has everything we were looking for. It has a beach, river, town square and easy access to tour around Europe.

Seville is only 1.5 hours away, and the Rota Naval Base is only 3 hours away by car. There is a Costco in Seville where we can buy some of the items we miss and appliances that are more American in style.

| Related Reading: A Navy Retiree Living in Rota, Spain

What legal status do you have that allows you to live in Portugal?

I am also a German citizen, which allows me to live and work anywhere in the EU. My father was German, and my mother was American, so I was born with both citizenships.

I wasn’t aware of this until my sister worked in Holland and explained that her firm didn’t need to get a work visa for her, as she was just considered a citizen by birth. So I looked up the requirements and made an appointment with the German Embassy.

I showed my father’s passport, my parents’ marriage certificate, and my birth certificate, and I gave them the passport fee along with two photos. They mailed me a German passport. Easy. With a German passport I can live and work anywhere in the EU.

A cafe with dozens of outdoor tables set up at dusk
Puro Cafe, one of Veronica’s favorite spots in Vila Real de San Antonio

Research your heritage. If you want to live abroad, it is important that you check all your genealogy and potential citizenships. It’s the fastest and best way to move overseas. If you served in the military, it can void other citizenships, however, your spouse may be eligible, and then you go in as a dependent.

Many of my American friends are applying for the D7 visa (the Portugal “retirement” visa). It’s best to apply from the States at your local Portuguese Embassy. It takes some time, but Portugal is one of the more generous countries with visas.

| Related Reading: Expat Living in Medellin, Colombia

Another option to obtain residence in Portugal is through the “Golden Visa” program. If you purchase a property over 500K Euros, then you’re eligible for this program, but make sure to hire an attorney before you purchase, as the rules are specific.

Did you get any pushback from your kids about your decision to move to Portugal?

We have four kids: two boys and two girls. They are all travelers, as we trained them young to see the world. They were excited for us and, of course, have visited.

Two of our kids joined the military, and our family ended up scattered around the USA (Florida, Georgia, Maryland, and California), so it’s not like we were all neighbors. Visiting required a long flight or drive to see each other, so living in Portugal is not that much different.

Do you speak Portuguese? If not, is it difficult to navigate daily life?

I’m trying, but it is a difficult language.

It’s super easy to get around, as 90% of the population here in the Algarve speaks English. This is a HUGE tourist destination for the British, and many expats are British, so English is widely spoken.

| Related Reading: Expat Living in Malta

There is a global English-speaking report you can find online, and Portugal scores in the highest percentile of English proficiency every year.

View of rooftops with a river the distance
The view of Vila Real de San Antonio from Veronica’s rooftop terrace

I do recommend learning Portuguese, as it’s polite to speak the language, and there are a few older people who don’t speak English.

How does the cost of living in Portugal compare to the U.S.?

The average salary for locals is about 800-1000 Euros per month. You can live comfortably on 3K Euros per month (check the money conversion, as it’s a big moving target right now).

You can easily rent a nice 2-bedroom apartment in Portugal for 750-1,500 Euros, depending on where you choose to live.

I purchased a 2-bedroom 2-bathroom condo/apartment with views of the river and ocean for 150,000 Euros in 2018. For an additional 10K I got a garage under my apartment (very rare . . . if you find a garage, snag it quick).

It’s super inexpensive to eat and drink in the East Algarve. Beers are 1-2 Euros, wine 2-3 Euros and most “tourist menus” are 11-12 Euros. A tourist menu includes a starter, drink (beer and wine also), main course, dessert and coffee. Don’t forget to ask for the plate of the day, as those can be as low as 5-7 Euros.

The table of an outdoor cafe overlooking a marina
One of Veronica’s go-to cafes overlooking the marina

I’m shocked every time I get my bill by how low cost it is to go out and eat. It’s easier to go out than dine in and about the same price by the time you buy all the necessary ingredients.

Many days, my friends and I sit at a snack bar (my favorite overlooks the marina and the river) and we will snack and drink for hours. The bill is under 20 Euros.

Tipping is about 10 percent, and in snack bars and cafes you just round up to the next dollar. As an American, I still tip 10-20 percent, and they are always happy.

Groceries are about the same as America in the stores but you can go to farmers markets and fish markets for a better deal. Fresh fish and local food are in abundance, as the Portuguese are a nation of fisherman and farmers. Local items will be lower cost than imported items, of course.

Where do you get your health care? Do you have a local insurance plan?

This is a great question for military members, as I was debating a health care plan.

I have TRICARE and called to switch to TRICARE Overseas, but you still have to pay the provider first and then get reimbursed. (Note from Poppin’ Smoke: TRICARE reimburses 75% of the cost).

| Related Reading: How to Use TRICARE While Traveling or Living Overseas

I’ve learned how low-cost health insurance is in Portugal, and I decided to purchase a plan with Allianz insurance through my local expat organization. I’m 53 and it’s only about 1,000 Euros per year for full coverage (also includes travel insurance for 2 months travel at a time).

A secluded beach in the Algarve, Portugal
A hidden beach in Algarve (15-minute hike required!)

I am registered with the Portuguese health care system, so I can get free health care, but I don’t want to be a burden on their system. Plus, I’m a PPO girl, not an HMO girl.

There is a beautiful private clinic just down the street that takes same-day appointments, and it’s only 50 Euros for a visit. I’ve popped down for an allergic reaction and bug bites, but I didn’t even bother to send the claim to TRICARE, as it’s so low cost.

If you have a condition that could be expensive, then I would recommend just buying the health coverage. If you can prove that you’re currently covered when you buy the insurance, then all pre-existing conditions are covered immediately.

They only accept new clients until you’re age 70, so if you’re close to that age, get in while you can (once covered, they continue to cover).

What income tax do you pay as an American expat in Portugal?

In short, I pay tax on my American earnings in America and my Portuguese earnings in Portugal. American expats who reside in Portugal must file tax returns in both countries.

I recommend researching the Foreign Earned Income Exclusion. If you qualify for the exclusion, you can earn up to $107,600 per person (for the 2020 tax year) in foreign earned income without incurring U.S. taxes.

Also, I signed up for Non-Habitual Resident (NHR) status. It’s an easy process, and NHR status means that Portugal will only tax you at a flat rate of 20% on any income earned in Portugal for your first 10 years of residence.

Having said all that, I’m not a lawyer or accountant. You should consult a CPA or financial advisor about your personal situation.

Is there anything you wish you had known or done differently prior to moving to Portugal?

I wish I would have known NOT to bring my car and to have sold it in the states and then purchased one here. (Note from Poppin’ Smoke: learn more about bringing a car to Portugal vs. buying in Veronica’s video here – 20:45).

When you become a resident, you only have 3 months to switch out your license, so do that quickly. Look up the process, because you need to get certified copies of your DMV history apostilled at your local Portuguese Consulate. I didn’t do this, and now I get to take Portuguese driving lessons and the test as if I’ve never driven before.

Tell us about life in VRSA!

I love to travel, so I use my location in Portugal (right on the Spanish border — my apartment overlooks the river to Spain) as a base to travel around Europe.

I’m walking distance to downtown VRSA. My town is full of great shops, and many Spanish travel here for the wonderful linens, pottery, boutique clothing shops, and cork products (cork is like a fabric here, with beautiful purses, hats, bags, etc).

There is a ferry to Spain right outside my home. It only takes nine minutes to get to Spain and costs less than two Euros. I can drive, but it’s so fun to get out on the water!

A dirt trail with pine forest in the background
Veronica’s favorite bike trails along the pine forest and beach between VRSA and Monte Gordo.

So, I have access to two countries, a river, the ocean, and many preserves and trails. I ride my bike to the beach or in the pine tree forest preserves along the beach to Monte Gordo, a beachfront town just a few kilometers southwest of VRSA.

Monte Gordo has about 15 cafes on a raised boardwalk overlooking the ocean. It’s a big tourist town, so it’s alive and busy in summer and shuttered in winter.

VRSA only has 3 hotels, so it’s more of a local town and just the right size to have everything you need without being too busy. There are no “clubs,” as it’s a family town.

People gather in the city square in the evening where many nights, there is a band or DJ. Families gather together with neighbors, and the kids run around the square as parents look on from a café table. It’s a safe and happy community spot, I love it!

There is a train, ferry and bus system to get around, but I have a car. I have friends who don’t have a car, but I recommend getting one here.

While buildings along a boardwalk with palm trees in front
The historic town of Vila Real de Santo Antonio

The closest “major” city would be Faro, which is about a 35-45 minute drive. The airport is located in Faro, and there are plenty of low-cost airlines so you can hop around Europe and beyond. Africa is also an easy flight or ferry ride from other European countries.

Do you have many friends from the local population, or do you primarily socialize with other expats?

I socialize with all types of people. I joined the International Rotary, which operates in English, and I’m the token American. There are members from all over Europe, and we have global visitors quite frequently.

When I moved into my home, I won the “neighbor lottery,” as my neighbor is one of my closest friends. She is Portuguese and has two children in college, and we are similar in age.

She is fun and active, teaches at the local school, and her sister is the President/Mayor of our county. She introduces me around, and I’m trying to learn Portuguese even though people speak English.

I’ve been included in a hiking group, a lunch group and have lifelong friends I’ve made from a Douro river cruise I took with our expat organization in the Algarve, the Association for Foreign Residents and Visitors (AFPOP is the acronym in Portuguese).

Do you feel “accepted” in the local community?

I think one of the best things about Portugal is the people. It’s easy to fit in if you try. I’m guessing most people who are looking to integrate into a new society are fun and outgoing and happy to fit in. It’s easy here with a little effort.

Happy Hour!

I live in a small town, so it has been easy to integrate.

One day, I went for a quick bike ride and ran into my neighbor and we chatted for a few minutes, and then I said hello to the butcher under my building as I left my apartment.

Then I saw Lydia, who operates a computer store under my building, and she also collects my packages for me. Then I said hello to Antonio, who owns a café (yes, under my building again), and as I biked down the street, I waved hello to Telma, who is my banker, and then to her brother at the gas station. Then I heard a hello from Joao across the street as he walked his dog.

The café owners know me and I’ve met a German friend, who is also retired and willing to café hop with me.

You moved to Portugal from the U.S. to enjoy retirement, but you ended up taking a job – what happened?

I enjoy sharing my travels by creating travel videos and I have a travel blog, Traveling Queen. I posted a video for another website for female travelers and decided to post it on my FB page as well. I labeled it “why an American lives in Portugal,” and it was shared.

| Check out the video on Veronica’s YouTube channel!

A team leader from the Lisbon Coldwell Banker (CB) office saw it on Facebook and contacted me. We spoke and he asked me to join his team. I was retired but figured since I had trained CB agents in California, I would give it a try.

It’s a Global Luxury Team so it’s fun to drive around to get to know the Algarve better and to see some of the beautiful historical homes. I figure I can help Americans avoid some of the drama I experienced while purchasing my home, and I can just take a few luxury customers, as needed.

What do you like about living in Portugal, and specifically, about your city?

I love the culture, the history, the ease of traveling to other countries, and most importantly, the kind, friendly and humble Portuguese people.

My city is perfect for me. It’s the perfect size to have everything I want but none of the crazy big city life (if you want big city life, try Lisbon).

The cost of living is low, and there is a new little town or historical site around every corner.

A bicycle parked along a wooden boardwalk with a beach full of umbrellas in the background
The raised boardwalk of Monte Gordo, lined with cafes and views

The important thing to me is community, and my town square is the center of life and friendships. Strolling down the Riverwalk, biking to the ocean or to Castro Marim (Knights Templar Castle), or to Monte Gordo (tourist town), I feel I have it all.

VRSA is literally the most southeastern corner of Portugal, and the borders of my town include the beach, the river and preserves with flamingos and birdlife. It’s my perfect corner of paradise.

What are some of the challenges of living in Portugal as an expat?

Getting used to the slower pace of life. Since family and friends come first, things are slower and can take more time. What great priorities, right?

It’s not fun when you’re waiting for the doorbell to ring so you can have the air or gas service turned on, but you learn not to plan more than one or two things in a day.

Also, the Portuguese people don’t like to give bad news. So if a contractor or service person can’t come as scheduled or can’t do a job in a specific period of time, you could potentially wait for them, and they never show up. They’d rather not arrive than give bad news.

You can stay proactive and explain that you need them to confirm and to share the bad news. Learn to ask specific and quantifiable questions and to relax. Things are slower here.

What advice would you give someone who is thinking of moving to Portugal?

Vehicles

Don’t bring your car – it’s a mess. I brought my car and ended up selling it so I could buy one here.

Choosing Where to Live in Portugal

Make sure to rent apartments in a variety of towns and areas in Portugal so that you can find the right vibe for you.

Rent during the summer and in the off season. Most rentals are furnished, so it’s easy to try before you buy. Summer is crazy busy here, while winter can close down a tourist town.

Money & Banking

Get a Schwab brokerage and bank account so you can get the best exchange rates and pull money without fees from the cash machines here.

I love USAA and have used them for years, but the exchange rate is better with Schwab. If you’ve had a USAA investment account, they recently transferred it to Schwab anyway, so just call them and ask them to open a checking account with an ATM card for you.

And it’s always good to travel with more than one ATM card. You never know which one works best as you travel. In Iceland only one of my ATM cards worked (and I have four . . . . it’s overkill, but that’s me).

Communication

Get WhatsApp installed on your phone. Most people use it here since the calling/SMS/data plans are expensive (I haven’t found an unlimited one yet).

T-mobile One works around the world, so keep it until you find something else better. I had T-mobile and loved it but switched to a local plan, and I am now kicking myself.

| Related Reading: How to Use Your Phone Internationally Without Charges

I have a German SIM card and a local SIM card. I need two, as the Portuguese SIM doesn’t work outside of the country. Since I’m in Spain all the time, I need coverage, and the German card works great.

Assimilating to Portuguese Life

Learn to relax and focus on the important things, like family and friends. There are many times I meet my neighbors, and they are all willing to stop and chat (sometimes for quite a long time . . . and I’m in a rush). They are on their way to work, appointments or meetings, but they prioritize the face-to-face contact with neighbors and friends.

So then they are late . . . oh well . . . everyone knows that “Portuguese time” is “late,” and no one worries or gets stressed. You just wait and find someone else to chat with. They are very kind and patient people.

Sunset view of Spain and the river from Veronica’s window

Be open and friendly, and absorb the good and bad. Enjoy each experience as it comes your way.

Learn to live like a local and don’t expect things to be just as they are in America.

My American friend, Ray, said it best: “I moved here because I wanted to live here, not leave there.”

What are your longer-term plans? Do you intend to stay in Portugal for the foreseeable future?

Yes, I love it here. It’s a retirement home, and I will pass it to my children. It’s a gem. Views like this are hard to come by, and I’m in the perfect spot for me. Location, location, location.

Anything you would like to add to assist others in making a decision to move overseas?

My husband passed away as we were selling our house and packing up to move to Portugal. I was heartbroken, but it was easier to move forward with the plans already in motion than to figure out a different plan.

There are times when I think “what did I do?” but this year the hindsight points to a good decision. We never know what will be or what is perfect, we just have to take steps forward and try.

I think most people who have this “dream” of living abroad or retiring early are already in the right mental space; it’s just taking the steps to do what’s required.

You can always go home, but if you don’t try it when you can, you might always have the regret of not trying. It’s not always perfect, and you need to be flexible and open to different ways of doing things, but I think most military people are already far ahead in this regard.

Tomorrow isn’t promised (I speak from experience) so if the wanderlust excites you, and you can formulate a plan, then seize the day.

* * *

Follow Veronica and learn more about life in Portugal on her YouTube channel, Adventures of an American Xpat In the Algarve!

You can also connect with her on her blog’s Facebook page, or contact her if you are interested in purchasing a home in Portugal.

Link to Pinterest: Early Retirement in Algarve, Portugal

The post Expat Retiree Profile: An American Moving to Portugal to Fulfill a Dream appeared first on Poppin' Smoke.



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